The good, the bad, the ugly & the ridiculous questions - August 21, 2013



[ Faux-hawk using leave-in conditioner, light styling gel & bobby pins ]

A big part of accepting black hair is letting go of all the stereotypes, assumptions & pure foolishness (my Caribbean readers would like that term haha) that surround Afro-American hair. I'm more than happy with the positive feedback regarding my hair that I've been getting while working at Honey Fig. However, there's always going to be those people who are ignorant or simply don't know how their words affect people. Now, I'm a pretty darn confident person but certain comments still make me wonder & sometimes even cause turmoil inside my mind. For example, whenever I do a wash & go or even on second or third day hair, customers are always asking me, "how do you get your hair so curly"? Huh?! I pray & hope that people know by now that curly hair doesn't "get" or "go" curly; it already IS curly!And I don't have a secret at all! My hair is NATURALLY CURLY. It doesn't "curl", I don't need to "curl" it, it is already curly! I don't have to do anything to my hair other than maintain or enhance the curl pattern that is growing out of my head!

Something that I've been trying to reiterate this whole time is that my hair regime is super simple when you break it down. I shampoo my hair once a week, condition very frequently, apply moisturizing creams every few days, protect at night time & show my fro real love & patience; nothing too different from what you all should be doing! The main difference is that my curl pattern is different. Different curls need different products. Every head of hair is completely unique! I think a lot of people look at other people's hair & think theirs should look the same, which is impossible because no curly head is alike! If you're going to have hair crushes & idols, make sure they at least have a similar hair type & curl pattern to be able to set realistic & healthy hair goals. Back to my hair regime, I simply use a variety of different styling gels and creams to define & hold my curls but my curls are already curly (haha, had to laugh at that). Once again, words, words, words are so important; they've always been! The way we word our questions, the things we say, the way we say them are all so crucial in how we are understood.

Another thing that will ALWAYS irk me the wrong way (and you'll see this in my older blog entry titled "Hair Growth: Not just a mixed girl thing") is people's assumptions that every coloured girl with beautiful, non-nappy, looser, defined curls is "mixed". I want to address again that hair growth is not related to race but neither is curl pattern!!! You can't logically say that Jamaicans have a specific curl pattern or even that Caucasians all have straight, fine hair because everyone is different & stereotypes don't pertain to everyone from that group! Hair growth is based on your inches per month ratio (anywhere from half an inch to an inch and a half per month; mine is 1 inch per month), your diet & how you take care of your hair. Someone's curl pattern is typically based on genetics but even still, plenty of people have curl patterns different from their parents or anyone in their family. Also, sometimes damage can alter a curl pattern & your styling tricks like braid & twist outs can alter the curls too. These assumptions that only "mixed" people have nice hair is ridiculous because if you really look our family trees, you'll see that everyone is mixed with something. That's how history works and that's how multiculturalism was created. My great grandparents were mixed with Portuguese & my parents are even mixed with Indian (on my mom's side). Just recently, a woman was asking about my curl pattern & said "but you're mixed right?" I said no, I'm black. She said, "oh yeah but I mean there's usually some type of Indian or white in Caribbean people". Now, yes I can agree with this statement because studies have shown that blacks have at least 10-20% Native Indian in them & at least 10-50% of European in them. But her first statement, the assumption that me being mixed is the reason for my curl pattern, is what annoys me deep in my soul! Yes, everyone is mixed if you go back far enough, but there's no RELATION to what I am and my CURL PATTERN. It's like saying all Asians have straight, black hair (which isn't true) or that all Jamaicans have kinky-coily hair (which also isn't true). See how silly that sounds?

In conclusion, as one person, I know I can't change everyone's opinions about natural hair, hair growth, curl patterns and the stereotypes that surround it all. I definitely can't do that in an instant. However, I do believe that as one person, I have the power to be apart of a movement to install a little bit of knowledge and at least enlighten people about natural hair & it's true beauty. Writing out all my feelings really makes me feel better, because this is my form of expression; it always has been.  It also means that my thoughts are now concrete and I can easily share them with the world. I mentioned this when I started my blog and I will mention it again. I started this blog to help make MY natural hair journey less lonely & to express what I learned throughout this roller coaster ride. If I influence ONE person & help that one person, I'm happy. I've already helped myself become a more educated naturalist and that means more to me than anything. Thanks again for reading :)

Black Girl Problems? There's no such thing! - July 30, 2013

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS "BLACK GIRL PROBLEMS"!

There is, however, such things like impatience, ignorance & negligence! Let's get some things straight here:
•Yes, there are actual curls under all that frizz. There are beautiful curls under every frizzy fro, you just have to take care of them & define them!
•Yes, you black girls can grow lots of hair & achieve big, full Afros, spiral curls & long length.
•Yes, you actually have to put effort, time & money into your hair if you want it to be healthy & look good.

But for healthy hair, long length & amazing curls to happen, you NEED to:

•STOP wishing you had other people's hair
•STOP using those harmful products that aren't formulated for your hair texture
•STOP using harsh chemicals like dyes & relaxers
•STOP trying to make your hair do something it wasn't meant to do
•STOP being afraid of cutting your hair
•STOP being afraid period!

Comment below or connect with me through Facebook (Black & Kinky: A Hair Journey or Instagram: @blackandkinky) & ask me all your hair related questions

OR

Visit us in-store for your very own, personalized, informative & curl-changing hair consultation! Honey Fig, the natural hair & skin boutique, is located at 4967 Yonge Street, north of Sheppard, at Hollywood Ave.

Let's end off July and begin August with some hair respect and acceptance, and leave all the negativity, assumptions, stereotypes and ignorance behind! Your curls will thank you by looking wonderful! Happy reading y'all!

Testing the (Hair) Waters: Part 2 - July 12, 2013

Lately, I've been able to try out many samples of the products we sell here at Honey Fig. Here lies my experiences with various styling products.

 

I'm going to admit, my lack of conditioning my hair is terrible! I remember going to Honey Fig earlier this year, asking for a deep conditioner. They suggested one from Morocco Method and Curl Junkie's Deep Fix and gave me samples. I may have tried them each a few times and then I stopped. I don't even remember which one I liked more. Why, I really couldn't tell you. Was it laziness? Most likely. It definitely wasn't because I didn't love my hair. I think I just hadn't realized how important this was for my hair. Now, I realize!!! Though I did just recently pick up a conditioner, I can't say I'm the queen of conditioning...Yet...I have used my Shea Moisture Raw Shea Restorative Conditioner ($22) only once, but I see great things in my future from using it as my conditioner. It can act as a leave-in, rinse out or deep conditioner depending on how long you leave it in your hair. It has the amazing moisturizing properties of raw Shea butter, sea kelp and Argan oil which all help repair and strengthen your hair as well as tame frizz, add shine and smooth strands. After using it just once as a rinse out conditioner during my co-wash, I instantly felt the difference. It instantly made my hair softer and also made applying detangling SO much easier.

I used the ever popular Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie for the first time as a wash and go curl enhancer. Now, this is literally the first time I actually took the time to section my hair, apply a hair styling cream and then apply a gel. I'm all about easy and literal "wash and go" hair. I spent the time and effort to section my hair, apply the curl enhancing cream, smooth the sections, apply my Kinky-Curly gel and diffuse my hair...yet my hair was still a short afro! Yes, it was super defined & extremely soft but I was really hoping for the cream to elongate my curls and get rid of the crazy shrinkage that I always have. And though it says you can use it on dry hair, I advise you not to do that! It's not water-y enough and doesn't melt into my hair like other creams do.

 

Keep reading for more (short and sweet) reviews on various hair products!

Abracadabra: The magical products your curls need - July 8, 2013

After working at Honey Fig for about a month now, I've been able to learn about numerous products, styling tips and hair care routines. I've also been able to test a bunch of products on my hair. About 7 months into my my natural hair journey, I think I can finally say that my hunt may be over! Key words: may be...As a newly educated natural hair enthousiast, I know how hard it can be finding what works for your hair and understanding all those fancy smancy names, ingredients, uses, benefits, downfalls...you get the idea. This entry will clarify and help you simplify your hair care routine; because it doesn't have to be difficult at all! I will outline my main choices for my shampoo, rinse out/deep conditioner, leave-in conditioner, moisturizing cream, styling gels and oils. I will also suggest some others. These are the main products every curly girl should own. Some people have more than one styling cream or gel and some have a collection of oils, but all should have those 6 main products. I will describe the products, explain how to use them and why they're so important. Please note that these specific products are magic for MY curls but may not work for YOUR hair texture, so please don't take this as the bible. All products are available at www.honeyfig.com.

Shampoo:

Why you need it: All hair types need a cleansing/clarifying system to rid your hair and scalp of dirt, excess oils and product build up. You want your shampoo to be sulphate free, moisturizing and with minimal lather. It's a plus if it smells good and helps detangle too!

I use: Blended Beauty Conditioning Soy Cream Shampoo. I started using this shampoo when I was transitioning from relaxed hair and continue to use it. This shampoo is great because it is super moisturizing with soy cream, aloe and rosemary, very gentle and lathers nicely. It is also great for detangling and softening your curls.

Other suggestions: Deva Curl No Poo (zero lather shampoo), Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Shampoo (moisturizing shampoo for thick, wavy, curly textures), As I Am Coconut Cowash (creamy co-wash that promotes hair health and growth).

Conditioner:

Why you need it: While shampoo clarifies, it can also strip the hair of moisture. A cleansing, rinse out conditioner helps moisturize, repair and soften your hair. A deep conditioner helps repair and strengthen dry, damaged hair to reduce frizz, add shine and make detangling and styling easy. Your conditioner can act as a deep conditioner; simply leave it in the hair for 15-30 minutes and do this 1-2 times a month.

I use: Shea Moisture Raw Shea Restorative Conditioner.

Other suggestions: Deva Curl One Condition (moisturizes and softens hair and can act as a leave-in) , JessiCurl Too Shea Extra Moisturizing Conditioner (extremely moisturizing with Shea Butter as the main ingredient).

Leave-in conditioner:

Why you need it: A leave-in conditioner is supposed to aid in the detangling of your curls before you start applying styling products. You want your leave-in conditioner to have lots of slip so it's easy to apply and work through your curls. You also need to make sure that your gels work well with it so you avoid white residue and product overload.

I use: Kinky-Curly Natural Detangling Leave-In Conditioner. This leave-in is absolutely wonderful for detangling curly to super kinky strands. The formula melts tangles and knots, and makes finger combing a breeze. This formula has Marshmellow in it, which helps clump curls for great definition. This conditioner works great as a base for the Kinky-Curly Styling Custard gel. This conditioner doesn't add much moisture to the hair so I suggest applying an oil or moisturizing cream before using any styling gel. Also, be careful not to use too much.

Other suggestions: Mixed Chicks Leave-in (non-sticky, non-greasy detangler), Darcy's Botanicals Sweet Cream Daily Leave-in (smoothes, moisturizes and detangles), Curl Junkie Beauticurls Leave-in (water-based leave-in with mango extracts).

Moisturizing Cream:

Why you need it: A few days after wash day, your hair may start to feel dry. This is normal but a thick or water-based cream is essential for making sure your hair doesn't stay dry. There are tons of hair butters, hair puddings and rich creams that will add moisture, shine and curl definition to your hair, that you can use on a daily basis. Some creams are great for twist and braid outs and some are great for wash and go's. It all depends on what your hair likes. Look for creams with Shea butter, coconut oil, sweet almond oil, sunflower seed oil, grape seed oil, cocoa and aloe for moisture.

I use: Uncle Funky's Daughter Super Curl Miracle Moisture Creme. This cream is extremely moisturizing and light enough for daily use. Made with Shea butter, coconut and sweet almond oils, this cream is great for softening the hair, reducing frizz and adding shine. This cream is also great for achieving wonderful curl definition on wavy, curly & kinky textures and can be used on its own as a styler.

Other suggestions: As I Am Doublebutter (thick cream that adds tons of moisture and aids in hair growth), Abi Wonder Afro Puff Cocoa Butter (daily moisturizing cream that defines curls).

Styling Cream:

Why you need it: Styling creams are great for achieving an elongated, shiny curl but not all of them provide enough moisture. It is important that you properly condition and moisturize your hair to ensure a healthy base for you to apply products. Styling creams vary in terms of consistency and again, this depends on what your hair likes. People with fine hair typically don't want stylers that are too heavy and people with kinky hair usually like thicker creams.

I use: Jane Carter Solutions Curl Defining Cream. This cream has given me the best anti-shrinkage curl definition thus far! It's a non-greasy, creamy formula that goes on smooth, doesn't leave any residue or crunch and doesn't have an overpowering scent. Curls are soft, defined and elongated.

Other suggestions: AfroVeda Totally Twisted Moisture Butter (great moisturizing cream to aid in twist-outs), Komaza Care Califia Styling Pudding (a thick, moisturizing cream that gives the hold of a gel), Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie (great for soft and defined wash and go curls).

Light Gel:

Why you need it: Though you may achieve gorgeous curls by using a cream based styler, most curls need that extra hold. You want to make sure your gel is alcohol-free; yes there is such thing! A light gel is great for curl definition and medium hold without the crunch.

I use: Curl Junkie Pattern Pusha. I love this gel because it is light that gives my curls great, moisturized, elongated definition. Because it is without alcohol, you don't have to use a moisturizing cream under it. This gel has great hold without the crunch or white residue which is why I continue to use it. Best when used on wet hair.

Other suggestions: Curl Junkie Curls In A Bottle (light, alcohol-based serum gel that offers great definition and hold), Curly Kinks Coil Jam (moisturizing gel with added essential oils).

Heavy Gel:

Why you need it: A heavy gel has more hold than a lighter one. It is best to use a heavier gel if your hair is prone to lots of frizz, is super kinky, or you want edge control.

I use: Kinky-Curly Natural Custard Styling Gel. This gel is best used when layered on top of the Kinky-Curly Knot Today leave-in conditioner and applied to wet hair. This gel gives the best curl definition and hold but can be messy. Be sure not to use too much and dilute with water.

Other suggestions: Uncle Funky's Daughter Curly Magic (aloe-based, medium hold gel with amazing definiton and softness), Darcy's Botanicals Curling Jelly (moisturizing gel with no crunch).

Oil:

Why you need it: There are tons of oils out there and most curly haired curls use more than one. A light oil is great for everyday use, as a styling base or to add shine. People also use it for deep treatments, hot oil treatments to repair and strengthen the hair. Oils penetrate the scalp and help promote hair growth. Some examples include, but are not limited to, sweet almond oil or jojoba oil.

I use: Kinky-Curly Polishing Oil [Argan oil] . I use this oil to coat my hair & seal in moisture before putting styling products on my hair. I find it helps soften my curls & combats the dryness I sometimes feel when I just use gel on its own. I also apply this to my hair every few days and use it as a pre-poo treatment before I wash my hair.

Other Suggestions: Coconut oil, amla oil, Shea nut oil.

I really hope that summary helped you understand the various products that curly girls should own, the benefits of them and how to use them. There are millions of products out there and it can be confusing about which ones are best for your curls, which one works, which ingredients to look for or look out for. Your best bet is to come into Honey Fig and have one of our hair experts conduct a hair consultation and assist you in finding the right products for your specific texture. If you have any questions about a particular product I use, please don't hesitate to post a comment to my blog. As always, I'm honoured to be able to help my fellow naturalistas through their hair journeys. Happy reading!

Twist, Braid & Shout: My very first twist out - June 26, 2013

[ First Twist Out! ]

I finally kicked my laziness in the butt and tried a twist/braid out! Now, don't go expecting a fabulous hairdo of luscious curls cascading down my back. I took every short cut I could possibly take! I probably did everything opposite of what you're supposed to do to create and maintain a beautiful twist out. First, my hair wasn't wet, it wasn't even partially wet, it was just damp. I wet medium and large sized sections of my hair and added a mixture of my Knot Today leave-in and my Kinky-Curly custard styling gel. I formed about 8 medium and large sized twists and braids with a few smaller twists near the front. Typically though, doing a twist or braid out on wet hair using a moisturizing cream, gel and oil is best for creating a frizz-free style. The next morning, I kind of patted some oil onto my twists and braids and took them apart. I added a bit of moisturizing cream all over. At night, I just threw on my satin cap. The following days, I just added some more cream or oil in the morning and stretched out my Afro with my hands and fingers. To keep a twist out frizz-free, you want to rebraid or twist your hair each night for the best results and to keep your twist out looking fresh longer. Though my hair did get stretched, because of the heat, my hair was more of a frizzy Afro than a neat, defined twist out. You live and you learn! One of these days, I'm going to put in the effort to do a proper twist or braid out.