Manipulating Your Natural Hair Texture: The healthy way! - April 6, 2013

[ Afro styled with sweet almond oil ]

[ Fauxhawk styled with water, Kinky-Curly styling gel, sweet almond oil & bobby pins ]

I'm sure every curly hair girl has wished she had a different curl pattern, either in general or for a particular style. I mean, most of us practically spent our whole lives longing for pin straight hair so of course we'd still be envious, even of other curly headed chicks. Sigh. These wishes and envies are all normal but I want to encourage you not to damage your hair in the process of achieving another curl pattern all for the sake of a hairstyle.

In the last few months, I've learned that my hair can take on various curl patterns depending on how I style it, and so can yours! It's important to know what your hair likes to do and what it doesn't like to do to ensure that your are manipulating your curls in the healthiest way possible! It only takes a few products and tools.

My natural hair texture is made up of super tight, defined spirals, also known as kinky-curly. My shrinkage is crazy (I'm still trying to embrace that) and so my hair looks 3/4 inches but it's probably about 5/6 in length when stretched. My hair is prone to ALOT of frizz which makes it look kinky and obviously frizzy, but my curls are actually really, really defined when styled properly.

The beginning of my styling regime "cycle" will usually include a wash and go style and then I'll do a few different styles within the week as my curls loosen and "frizz out". When I want to achieve a super defined wash and go look, I have to make sure I lock in moisture. When my hair is still soaking wet from my wash or co-wash, I apply my moisturizing Lush Butter rich creme and then my Kinky-Curly styling gel, in smoothing strokes on small to medium sized sections of my hair. This ensures that the moisture is being contained all over, my curls are being stretched and smoothed, and that evil frizz is being eliminated. I can choose to lightly dry my hair with a diffuser on a low, cool heat to set the gel or I can let my hair hair dry. This routine gives me super defined, thick (or "juicy" as I call them) spiral curls.

The day after my wash and go, I may spray some water on my hair to reactivate the gel and define the curls or I'll leave it as is. As the week goes on, my hair will become less defined and start to separate into kinkier curls and frizz is very visible. When this happens, I can style my hair in many ways. For the rest of the week, regardless of the style I'm trying to achieve, I'll spray my whole head with water and then smooth either my Lush Butter rich creme or my water based Super Curl moisturizing creme all over. This combination helps stretch and define my curls with the necessary moisture. I mostly focus on the curls around the perimeter of my hair, like the front and sides.

If I'm doing a Faux Hawk style (second photo), I'll slick the sides back with gel and add bobby pins on each side. I'll mix water and gel and smooth out or scrunch the front portion so it's defined, shiny and kind of "hangs" in front of my forehead. Voila! If I'm doing the Faux Headband style, I will make sure the front is defined with water, gel and or my Lush Butter rich creme. Then, I'll pull back sections and bobby pin them so they form a fake, invisible headband around my head. I fluff out the front and done! Sometimes, I pull one side back or I'll pin my "bangs" to the side. I follow the same steps. I'll add water to my hair, smooth on some gel or rich creme and bobby pin the sections.
By the end of the week, my hair's "loose" but there are still defined curls all over (first photo). I can achieve a bigger Afro by applying my sweet almond oil to small sections of my hair, smoothing it in onto the strands and massaging my head. After that's all done, my hair has reached new heights and I can rock an Afro of looser curls. They are still spirals but looser and softer.

Some other styles you can attempt are really big, volumous, loose curls by roller setting your curls. You simply complete your regular washing or co-washing routine. Then smooth a water + product combo to your hair and wrap and secure small sections around flexi-rods or straws of your desired size. After your whole head dries, you release your hair from the rods or straws, apply a moisturizing creme and style as wanted. Two other ways to alter your curl pattern include the infamous twist outs and braid outs!
Following the same prepping routine, you part your hair into sections (the size depends on how big or small you want your curls). You twist or braid each section. Make sure your hair is damp or wet with water and product before you twist or braid. Let your hair fully dry before releasing the twists or braids. Apply a moisturizing product afterwards and style as necessary.

Remember, your are not "stuck" with a certain curl pattern or hairstyle! There are so many things to do with curly hair! I'm having a really fun time experimenting with different curls and styles. Don't put yourself in a boring box! Use the products and tools you already have and a bit of inspiration from my favourite black hair blogs, Black Girls Long Hair or Black Girls Real Hair to add excitement to your curl rut. Also, if you ever see someone with a wicked hairstyle, don't be afraid to ask them how they achieved it. We're all in this natural hair game together!